Our Experts
David Matthews – owner and key contributor of Carbonblack’s blog
An industrial chemist by profession, David spent 40 years in the Tyre Industry. He is experienced in many aspects of tyre and retread development, technical service, testing and quality control. David spent 8 years as Training Manager of Beaurepaires and Dunlop Olympic. He “tells it like it is”. His plain, simple, technically based explanations are written so that you can understand. He will edit our blog. In his spare time he’s a keen jazz pianist, and plays tennis in the over 70’s N.S.W. Veterans (Seniors) tennis team. He also has 12 years experience as a journalist, so is looking forward to hearing from you!
Allan Henry
Allan Henry has spent most of his working life in the automotive tyre industry.
With more than 30 years in the industry, Allan has considerable experience in many facets of tyre design, manufacture and tyre performance.
From many years involved in tyre construction, tread pattern, and tyre mould shape design and development, tyre technical and uniformity issues related to tyre manufacture, plus road, track and laboratory testing of tyres, Allan has an extensive, in-depth knowledge of most tyre technical issues.
Allan also spent 5 years in senior technical support roles at both the tyre wholesale and retail level, making him one of very few people in Australia with real knowledge, not only of how tyres work, but also the issues facing today’s tyre consumer.
Allan is a qualified mechanical engineer, and has a Masters Degree in Management.
Blog Article from Allan: Tyre review interpretation
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1. Comment on Wheels Tyre Test – April 2007 « The Tyre Blog | April 24, 2007 at 9:44 am
[...] Our Experts [...]
2.
Chris Parkes | November 2, 2007 at 6:26 pm
Hi, located your web site and really interesting.
Would like to ask your expert opinion of some Camac 195/50/R15 tyres I have that are falling apart basically.
Tyres have done around 300 miles and the rubber is peeling off like there is no tomorrow.
Would value your opinion and will send pictures should you wish to see these dangerous items.
Regards
Chris Parkes
3.
ludocb | November 5, 2007 at 10:28 am
I would have to see close up photos of the tread surface, taken at
an angle to the (preferably) setting sun, to be able to offer an opinion (just that, an opinion) as to the cause of the abnormal wear pattern that you describe.
Have you tried the 4 inch sellotape trick applied to a dusty surface, to see if there is an acute alignment problem. This is described in my blog, I think on “Barber pole wear“.
I would need vehicle details, and who makes CAMAC? 195/50R15 not all that common in Australia, is it a commercial tyre or a passenger tyre. So I need more information.
David
4.
Denise | December 15, 2007 at 1:27 am
Hi David, We have a 2006 Holden Captiva which has SP270R 235/55/18R 100H Dunlop) tyres the car has 31000. on the clock , Driving has been around town(Live in Country town) @40% and the other 60% HWYWhen we purchased the car it was pulling to the left, it was wheel allinged by bridgstone 3 times as orginised my holden dealership, It still pulled to te left after this. We decide to pay for an allingment at a Tyrepower shop who had recently opened and had new equipment, after 2 visits car was ok but still had slight pull to left. At second service of 30 thou the rear tryes were almost totaly scrubbed out, The holden dealership will not take responsabilty and neather will tyre power. My husband has since taken it to a place in Dandenong called Amberley wheel alingments and OMG the car drives like a dream. i believe that some one is in the wrong and Its not me what is your view on what I should do. Especially seing how these tryes are Sooooooo expensive
5.
Peter | January 27, 2008 at 10:36 am
Hi Allen,
I have a set of well worn Conti SportsContact 2 tyres on a Focus XR5 that have endured nearly 50000km. From all my reading and understanding, this is quite high mileage for a set of low profiles. I do not tend to drive hard regularly.
The problem I am enduring is what to replace them with!
I have been informed of a few brands worth looking at, and have read a large amount of info on different people’s opinions and I come to the conclusion that different tyres suit different cars. Obviously different tyres come with different price tags! I am after a tyre that will give great grip in dry and wet and is also hard wearing. The concept of replacing tyres at 20000km is a little daunting to me! (hence my reasons for not driving hard!) I am happy to pay the price for the right tyre.
Would you have any advice for selecting Bridgestone RE001 Adrenalines, Yokahama Advan V103’s or another set of Conti’s for the Focus XR5?
Thanks very much,
Pete
6.
David | February 14, 2008 at 8:30 am
Response to the posting about 30000 km on the tyres on a Holden Captiva.
The Captiva is an interesting vehicle. It is predominently FWD, but a proportion can be directed to the rear wheels on demand, up to 60 front/40 rear, or 50/50, depending on who you talk to. The Toyota RAV4 is the same. To have the rear wheels wear out first on what is predominently a FWD vehicle, is extremely unusual. After all, mostly they just hold up the corners.
The front wheels drive, brake, and steer. Hard work, so they generally wear out first. The clue I read into this is that the vehicle pulled to the left since new.
Before going any further, I would read “All About Tyres” on our website, in particular the article on “Barber Pole Wear”. A new posting due this week on “Shipping Pressures” on my blog may also prove helpful (“keep an eye on the blog”).
You do not state whether the (many) alignments that were done were front wheel alignments only, or a full 4 wheel alignment to the thrust line. It would be possible to compensate for the pull to the left by aligning the front wheels only, without fixing the fundamental cause. Front wheel drive vehicles are very sensitive to being built, or tracking out of square. Much more so than rear wheel drive.
The joke was that the old Holden Kingswood would take anything in the way of misalignment. Nethertheless, the Captiva is built by Daewoo in Korea, is sold widely worldwide, and it’s therefore doubtful that the original jigs on which it is built are out of square.
By comparision, it is well known that particular runs of certain quite popular vehicles have in fact been built misaligned. So:- was it damaged or bent at the multi-link rear suspension during shipping is question 1, and did you have a full four wheel alignment done at any stage? is question 2. I assume that the tyres were rotated front to rear at some stage. (That would be question 3)(You pay extra for a full 4 wheel alignment)
With the answers to those questions, I can only recommend that you take the matter up with the Consumer division of GMH, the address for which will be found in the vehicle handbook.
David.
7.
ludocb | February 14, 2008 at 8:42 am
Reply to Pete regarding his Ford Focus for posting on the blog.
Pete, you are chasing nirvana!. To have maximum wear wet and dry with the current range of polymers and compounds is not achievable. You have to compromise!
Tyre manufacturers undergo a long selection process to achieve original equipment fitment to a new model motor. Most drivers enjoy the choice of low profile tyres and a sportier version of the “cooking model’ by either going faster, or more likely, cornering faster. Tyres wear up to eight times faster going round corners and roundabouts, you know.
Reading your request, if you have got 50000 km from your tyres, ( I suggest that you rotated them front to rear at some stage) I would be inclined to stay with the brand that gave you that performance, which ain’t real bad at all, in my experience.
Hope this helps!
David.
8.
Rob | February 15, 2008 at 12:01 am
David or Allen
this is a bit out of left field, but can either of you tell me what the maximum speed rating for an aircraft tyre would be? We are having a wonderful argument on http://www.recreationalflying.com.au/forum/index.php about theoretical scenarios and one person seems to be suggesting 1000 knots is safe. I think most tyres would be lucky to survive 200 knots. PS David I also like listening to jazz and particularly great players like Keith Jarrett.
regards Rob
9.
David Matthews | February 17, 2008 at 1:21 am
I expand a bit on aircraft tyres on our carbonblack.com.au site in “All about Tyres”. “Tyres QandA” in “How many times does a tyre go round” and “Why the difference”. I will also be posting a more detailed report on the type of qualifying testing that a jet aircraft tyre undergoes for a new “type” of aircraft (so keep an eye on the blog). In other words, the tyre’s endurance is matched to the aircraft’s performance. There is also a “high Speed Test”, again matched to the aircraft, which from memory ranges 230-250 knots.
10.
ANURAG MITTAL | February 19, 2008 at 11:44 am
i wanted to ask why the auto tyres are shaped so.!!……..mns why they have flat bases with very slight curavture at ends..??…why has’nt there been any modification in its shape since ages??
11. Our Experts on: Aircraft Tyres « The Tyre Blog | February 20, 2008 at 4:00 am
[...] on CarbonBlack, occasionally something comes along that piques our interest. In this case it was a question posted to our tyre expert David Matthews on aircraft tyres. Here’s David’s [...]
12.
David Matthews | February 22, 2008 at 10:46 pm
Tyres revolve, and evolve, but the shape under load fundamentally remains the same. Why is it so? Over the past twenty years or so, once radials became the standard passenger tyre, the rim diameter has increased from 13 inches to 19, the width from 185 mm to around 235. This has lengthened the footprint though I admit it is still broadly speaking, elliptical. It’s the footprint that distorts, and in so doing, does all the work of steering, cornering, accelerating, braking. If It had the contact area of say, a railway wheel, you wouldn’t be able to do any of those! And if it were laid down like a tank track, a rectangular footprint, you wouldn’t be able to go as fast due to mechanical limitations of this system (which is used on agricultural tractors by the way). Magnetic levitation seems the way to go! That would solve all those problems, just create new ones.
13. Our Experts on: Hot Tyres and the Grand Prix « The Tyre Blog | March 17, 2008 at 4:35 am
[...] Our Experts [...]
14.
Lawrie | October 5, 2008 at 10:07 am
I own a Honda Accord VTi 2008. The wheels and tyres supplied
17.75J, 225/50R17 94V. Live in NSW.
I would like to get lower profile tyres and new wheels.
I dream of 19/8.5 and 235/35/ZR19 but everytime I seek advice the answer comes back different.
I seek Alan’s advice because he is not trying to push any particular wheel or tyre.
So help me with guidelines for choosing a set of wheels (I have no idea if offset has to be considered in my case) and if there are a few tyres that would do the job, tell me guidelines so that I could make the final choice, (which most likely will be driven by cost)
Thank you….Loz.
15.
Lawrie | October 5, 2008 at 12:04 pm
I meant to refer to this number in my blog above.
standard combo 225/50-17 and my choice 235/35-19.
In the “choose Tyre” these are the results. My tyre brand was Sumitoro HRT Z II.
225/50-17 112 mm 328 mm 657 mm 2063 mm 485 0.0%
235/35-19 82 mm 324 mm 647 mm 2033 mm 492 -1.5%
Does this fall within acceptable for retaining car warranty, RTA approval and Insurance companies?
16.
Graham Smith | October 13, 2008 at 2:23 pm
I have had some Hankook Dynapro AT-A RF09 195 /80 R15 94S
put on to my Freelander by the garage I bought the car from.
Have you any Idea if they are any good,and if they are trully all terrain. Thanks
Smiffy
17.
Steve | October 29, 2008 at 9:08 pm
Hi folks,
I drive a 2007 Subaru Impreza RX (5 sp, manual hatch). The factory tyres are Yokohama A-spec (205/55/16). Does the job nicely when driven sedately (currently done just over 8000kms). Previously I was driving a 2002 Corolla (4sp auto sedan) and I had aftermarket Bridgestone G III on them – I loved the Bridgestones.
My driving style is considerate and not a risk-taker. However I do enjoy the knowledge of driving on good rubber. The Bridgestone Adrenalin RE001 seems a bit of overkill for the Subaru.
I’ve looked at the Dunlop SP Sport 3000A and Yokohama AS01 and remain undecided.
Can you make suggestions for a decent ftermarket upgrade?
Many thanks,
Steve
18.
ludocb | October 30, 2008 at 11:10 am
Lawrie,
The proposed fitment of 235/35ZR19 as a replacement is a legal fitment in N.S.W., as the match is suitable for diameter, speed rating, and load carrying capacity. Diameter changes are restricted to Plus/minus 15 mm. Track width increase also restricted to plus 25 mm.
So when you finally decide on a fitment, check first with your insurance company, and hope that you talk to the right person there who knows what you are about.
The section width of your current tyre on a 7 ½ inch rim is 238. Tyre tables show it as 233, but this is as measured on a 7 inch rim.
The 235/35 measures 241 on an 8 ½ inch rim.
As a rule of thumb, each extra inch of rim width adds 10 mm to the section width. If the rim offset is the same, then this extra 10 mm is split evenly inboard and outboard.
However, most front wheel drive cars have a high offset outboard, so you would have to check first that a 19 inch rim with the same offset as your existing rim is available from a wheel supplier with the Honda Stud Pattern and pitch circle diameter. Most 19 inch rims on the Australian market are for the big six/V8 rear wheel drive performance cars, so this may be difficult, as they may not have enough offset. But before you do that, check whether an extra 3 mm inboard (maximum I suggest) is significant in fouling any suspension or brake components on full lock, and full jounce. So at this stage you haven’t spent any money!
Nethertheless, I think that you are on the right track. If you would like further reading, our “All About Tyres” on “Rules of Thumb- Lower, Fatter, Wider”; “Extending Track Width”; and “Reading a Tyres Message” will provide background information.
However, when you use the Carbonblack Tyre Exchange facility, and invite bids from performance tyre shops in your area for the complete package deal, it may prove cheaper than buying the individual components, including wheel nuts suitable for the new wheels, and a lot more convenient!
David
19.
ludocb | October 30, 2008 at 11:12 am
Smiffy
The AT in the tyre type description stands for “All Terrain’, and if that’s what you were looking for, one with good on and off-road capability, that is what the manufacturer is claiming for their tyre.
However, one thing you should know about. I assume that yours is a 1998 Freelander, the original equipment for which was 195/80R15 91T. The 91 T stands for the load it can carry at a certain speed and pressure. T is a higher category than “S” which you have now fitted (190 km/h as compared to 180 km/h). So you say, the old girl will never do that speed, so what does it matter. Answer- it matters if you haven’t advised your insurance company, and got their approval, best in writing. Mostly, if you tell them that the original equipment tyres are no longer available, or far too costly, the insurance company will probably agree to continue to cover you.
Cheers
David
20.
ludocb | October 30, 2008 at 11:19 am
Steve
205/55R16 is a size that I have had quite a bit of experience with, on my Nissan 200SX cars- two over the years.
The original Yoko 008 assymetric tyres were great, suffered in the wet a bit, but gave good wear because they had more rubber on the road- one solid bar on the outside.
The next 200SX had Bridgestone, I seem to remember, and these did 35000 km, the Yokos (on a different model, but substantially the same), had done 50000.
So I put on the Dunlop 3000 -, the pattern has a high void ratio to tread rubber, and the wear should them out at about 25000. This may be because it has silica in the tread rubber replacing some of the carbon black to improve wet grip – the selling point for this tyre.
However for your style of driving in an Impreza, I’d be inclined to suggest Yokohama, the more rubber on the road the better, bearing in mind it’s a trade between wet grip and tread wear overall.
Cheers
David
21.
Bob Moore | December 31, 2008 at 8:46 am
Have tyres on XR5 turbo (Continental sport 2) and after having only driven 20,000kms have bee n advised that tyre needs replacing as it has come away from wheel wall, question would I have a claim as have only driven easy highway kilometers and with little wear and tear. thanks in advance Vob
22.
ludocb | January 7, 2009 at 6:36 am
A Claim Tyre
So you reckon you’ve been sold a “bodgy” tyre- and you want to seek redress for it. The tyre just didn’t perform, or developed a fault which.
In tyre speak it’s known as a “claim tyre”.
Consider the following – all products sold on the Australian market are guaranteed to be of marketable quality under Consumer Protection laws. So if the tyre has failed in service due to defects in quality, materials, design or manufacture, then it should be replaced by the manufacturer. Experience shows that these types of defects show up early in the tyre’s life. So generally speaking, there’s no hassle in getting it replaced, though the paperwork involved gives the processing dealer a pain. Think of it as actually doing the manufacturer a favour, because if the design or manufacturing process is suspect, then the earlier it is fixed the better.
The amount of the “claim” is generally determined by the amount of level of tread life remaining- though it might be slightly skewed in favour of the customer if it happens very early as the inconvenience factor to the customer comes into play. This is a policy matter for the manufacturer to deal with.
A Damaged Tyre
Consider, though, also the following. Tyres operate in a very harsh environment, called the Australian road system. They must be suited to the service application, in which they are to be used. The tyre must also be suited to the application. If a particular type of tyre repeatedly fails in a service application, it probably needs to be up-graded to a superior tyre. In Australia, heat, long distance driving, and heavy loads are the major factors affecting tyre life. If this is your normal driving routine, then an upgraded tyre in either load bearing capacity (the number figure e.g. 96) or the speed index (S.H.V.Z. etc) will give the tyre more reserve capacity to cope with the conditions. Just get your mind around the fact that “heat” is the enemy of tyres, and the speed. Load, and distance are all important in determining satisfactory service.
Finally they must have adequate reserves of performance to cope with every day abuse, which is covered by the Australian Design Rules governing tyres fitted to new cars.
The environment can cover factors as diverse as broken road edges, potholes, broken timber bridge decking, off-road protruding sharp rocks, tree roots – the possibilities for damage are endless.
Damage can result in cuts into the tread area, which admit water into the under-tread and steel belt area. The belts rust, lose adhesion to the rubber, and a separation of belt to tread occurs.
Sidewall damage can cause fractures inside the tyre casing in the sidewall area, which fracture the reinforcing cords there. The unsupported casing flexes excessively in that area and either it cracks through to the inside of the casing, causing a bubble, or right through, which causes a rapid deflation.
So if you suspect that the sidewall has been damaged (a bent rim is a good indicator), the tyre must be stripped from the rim, the beads spread, and the tyre examined closely from the inside.
Road Hazard Warranty
Damaged tyres are not “claim” tyres- it is damage incurred during service. You can insure against the loss of the tyre by taking out a “Road Hazard Warranty” at the point of sale. Most tyre dealers offer this service.
When you lodge claim on the tyre maker, these figures are collated, and if the numbers get too high, then either a recall can be instituted, (voluntarily or enforced) or more commonly, a design modification is made to upgrade the tyre’s performance.
Tyre design engineers believe fervently that the customer can dream up more ways of using and abusing a tyre than they ever could!
23.
ten alley | February 6, 2009 at 5:41 am
found it hard to find a good tyre for 205/65/r15 for vienta.
went to yellow pages and could not compare tyres.
found carbon black useful in getting a shortlist of 6.
picked dunlop sp sports 300e and still not sure which one is best.
would be good if manufacturer tyres are rated in numbers and the table can be sorted in price as well as ratings.
comparing 6 tyres would be useful if more info given which clearly allows us to choose the best.or if your system arranges them in rank order with reason clearly.
thank you
24.
Kelly | February 7, 2009 at 11:49 am
Hi David & Allan
I have a boat trailer with 9″ Olympic brand tyres, the only markings are… “Olympic Trailer”, “6.00-9 Ply Rating 4″ & “Made in Australia Reg No 38526″
I’m re-registering the trailer and need to be able to demonstrate that the loading bearing rating of the tyres is sufficient for the weight of the boat. The rims are 512kg, but the tyres have no weight markings.
The tyres are in good order, so I don’t want to have to replace them unnecessarily. Do you know of any catalogue with the weight bearing spec for these tyres?
Thanks
25.
ludocb | February 9, 2009 at 11:25 pm
Dear Kelly,
600-9 4 ply rating tyres can carry a load of 400 kg at a maximum pressure of 275 kPa (40 p.s.i.). These are a small, high pressure tyre for trailers such as boat trailers.
David
26.
Josh Moss | March 1, 2009 at 3:02 am
The original set of tyres fitted to my Land Cruiser gave me 80,000km of wear. But the 2nd set are looking far more worn than I think they should, even though they have been balanced and alternated. This set has done only approx. 60,000km. Sound this sound correct?
Factory pressures say 32psi but I’ve always run them at 36psi. Some drivers have told me that 40psi give better ware.
27.
David Matthews | June 14, 2009 at 1:56 am
I have to assume that these were the same brand tyres, and pattern, in which case your Landcruiser has now done 140000 km, and a third set ot tyres is contemplated. Land Cruisers can be fitted wirh everything from a 7.50R16 light truck tyre to a low profile R.V. tyre of 275/60 profile, or even lower. So I have to generalise in my answer.
Wear of the steering and suspension components, changed driving habits or route, different terrain, the propensity of councils to build more roundabouts,and re-surfaced roads can all change tread mileages, as can loads, pressures, towing a trailer or van, and importantly, temperatures.
As your tyres are in all probability radials, the change to tread wear due to pressure variations are minimal; a little more or less body roll might be noticed, with consequent shoulder wear, (which your rotations may have hidden) but that’s about it. Pressure changes lengthen the tyre footprint (lower), or stiffen the sidewalls (higher), but don’t change the crown radius of the tyre on the road- the steel belts hold it to the design shape.
28.
andrew | March 10, 2009 at 7:35 pm
hi, i have on my car 205/55-r15-82v can i put on 195/50-r15 on to my rims instead cos i have had some given? many thanks.
29.
ludocb | March 11, 2009 at 6:45 am
Hi Andrew,
Please see our tyre sizing calculator Tyre Sizing Guide
Specifications Sidewall Radius Diameter Circumference Rev/Miles Difference
205/55-15 113 mm 303 mm 606 mm 1905 mm 525 0.0%
195/50-15 98 mm 288 mm 576 mm 1810 mm 552 -5.0%
More on this for your interest: http://tyres.wordpress.com/2006/12/05/benefits-of-larger-diameter-rims/
But more on your specific question…
The 195/50R15 are 82V, and normally 205/55R15 are 88V. So you may wish to check your tyre sizes. If in fact your vehicle placard requires an 88V, then the 195/50R15 will not be legal.
See the state by state regulations.
As for the greater picture as to where it fits, it’s incorporated in the tyre sizing calculator.
Most states permit a plus or minus 15 mm tolerance on diameter, so the tyres are too small in diameter to be legal. However, if the Service index situation is O.K. then the insurance company may permit them as a fitment. The rim width, although not stated, could be O.K. It’s probably six inches.
David
30.
Dave Pledger | March 12, 2009 at 1:43 am
David and Allan
I am competing in Targa Newfoundland in a 59 mini cooper. We are running Yokohama 165/70/10 A032R tires. A new rule is being contemplated that would require tires to have a tread wear rating. Those that do not will be subject to a stiff time penalty which would essentially make us noncompetetive. Because we have small engines we really need to be able to outhandle the big cars – they use grunt for compete, we use grip. Oddly, Yokohama does not have a tread wear rating for these tires and this has created a unique problem.
There are very few tires available for 10 inch wheels that are competitive.
I am trying to find an approach to this impending rule – specifically to try and quantitate a wear rating for the yokohama when none is specified. Any ideas ? Do you know where I could go to obtain this info ? So far I have nothing
Dave Pledger
31.
David Matthews | June 14, 2009 at 1:38 am
Sorry about the late reply, which ran up a lane in our system. I hope that you are enjoying your rally season.
The Mini came out in the sixties with first 5.20-10 cross ply tyres, then very quickly to 145R10 textile belted Pirelli Cinturato and Dunlop SP41 tyres. These have all now passed into history, and the only 10 inch manufactured now that I know of is the tyre you are on. You could try the Pirelli catalogue though.
Further information on the Uniform Tyre Quality Grading System will be found in our “All About tyres’ on our carbonblack.com.au website. The system was introduced in the sixties by the U.S.A. Department of Transportation. Because of the expense, basically if the car wasn’t sold in America manufacturers didn’t bother to qualify their tyres, size by size, thru’ the American system. That’s why your tyres of that vintage don’t carry the U.T.Q.G code. Reading between the lines, i would say that the controlling body of the Targa is trying to hog-tie you so that you can’t use racing slicks or really gummy tyres. There were at one time tyres for studded use on ice, used in the famous Monte Carlo rally, which the Mini won (Paddy Hopkirk as I recall).
However, in Australia, the Mini had derivatives called the Bushman, the Mini-Moke, and the Californian. All had 13 inch wheels, and associated mechanicals .The Morris 1100 had 12 inch wheels, was slightly bigger than the Mini. You might be able to locate these through the Mini clubs in Australia; use would of course be dependent on scrutineering rules for you. However, you would have a much better chance of picking up suitable 13 inch rally/racing tyres than 10 inch in Canada, I would think. Hope this helps. David.
32.
Paul Chu | March 18, 2009 at 4:30 am
My tyres are BFGoodrich 20555ZR16 (90) G-Force Sport. Is the ZR in the description the speed rating for over 240 kph? The tyre also has the product label BF2055516GFSV. Is the V in this label the speed rating as well?
These tyres are made in Thailand. Does the country of manufacture affect the quality?
Thanks for your advice.
33.
ludocb | March 26, 2009 at 1:02 am
Paul,
Probably GFSV is the pattern description. The ZR is the speed rating. Without a further Service Index (Load Index and Speed Category combined) at the end of the size branding, a ZR rated tyre can carry 100% of its specified load at speeds to 240 km/h. Above that, higher speeds are permitted provided that the loads are reduced. This greater speed range is agreed between the vehicle maker and the tyre manufacturer. The only source for this information would most probably be the car handbook. (We are talking Ferraris and Lamborgini type cars here.)
David
34.
Sal | April 1, 2009 at 7:28 am
Our Renault megabe needs new tyres. Currently we have Continental Contact 2, but they will be $200 more per tyre compared to the Michelin Precede PP2. Will the Michelin be as good for performance, grip and cornering?
35.
Steve Abigail | May 6, 2009 at 7:33 am
HI, just looking to get new tyres for my 86 Porsche 928S….225/50 R16 92V it has Faulkens on it when I bought it……not that impressed. I have been told Pirelli P7’s are good…..can you help me in this direction? regards Steve
36.
David Matthews | August 5, 2009 at 8:01 am
Yes I just put 205/55R16 Pirelli P7’s on my Nissan 200SX. I’m quite impressed. They are an asymmetric tread pattern, so a little bit of fast cornering shouldn’t disturb them too much They are also remarkably quiet I find. Possibly not fully up to the mark in steering response, but I feel that you would have to pay a lot more for Pirelli’s further up the totem pole to markedly improve this aspect.e.g. P Zero’s.
37.
Raj | June 22, 2009 at 11:24 am
Hi David,
I am planing to upgarde my Hyundai Getz tyres from 185/60/R-13 hankook to 195/50/R-14 Hankook R-S2. Now after working on this since last 2 weeks, i am still confused to buy hankook R-S2 or Michilin sports series. I would request you to please guide me to buy the right tyre for my machine.
Many Thanks
38.
Kelly | August 9, 2009 at 11:11 am
Hi
I’m needing to buy some 225/50R16 for my Holden commodore.
I will be driving in QLD (which as we know can be wet) so wet handling is very important. I have read bad reviews on bridgestone / goodyear / dunlops regarding amount of km’s before they wear out. Am looking at Maxxis MA V1 which reviews say are good wearing and handle well in the wet – but can you believe the reviews???
Any ideas would be much appreciated
39.
Rendell Day | August 23, 2009 at 4:21 pm
I have problems with foam filled earth moving tyres. The lock rings come loose and the rim separates from the tyre. Have you any advice what the problem could be. Tyre sizes are 1400 x 24.
40.
David Matthews. | October 8, 2009 at 10:01 am
There is not enough sideways (lateral) pressure on the sidewalls to keep the tyre beads fully engaged (shoved) up the bead ledge to keep the beads seated. Once the beads of the tyre are dislodged into the wheel well, the lock ring comes loose,and then starts to chew into the tyre. Foam filled tyres (or so called solid, partly flexible) polyurethane filled tyres are generally only used for very slowspeed operations in highly puncture prone operations, such as rubbish tips and the like. Higher speeds will cause problems such as you describe, the heat degrades the polyurethane, and the problems begin I hate to say this, as a 55 year tyre man, but the solution may be to go to a vehicle with tracks, like an army tank, only rubber tracks..
41.
Lawrence | September 18, 2009 at 1:52 am
To whom it may concern,
I have just bought a 2007 Holden Commodore SV6 VE with 18 inch alloy wheels on them and need some advice as to the recommended set of tyres I should get.
The current set of tyres are as follows:
Back – Runaway – 245/45 ZR18 100W
Front – Bridgestone Potenza – 245/45 R18 96V
Yours sincerely,
Lawrence
42.
Carol | September 19, 2009 at 9:22 pm
Hi Everyone
I want to buy some white swan car tyres for the garden.
Yes I know I’m mad! Any idea where I can get some?
43.
Lesley Matthews | October 15, 2009 at 3:25 am
I need some advice. I am up for 4 new tyres for my 100 series Landcruiser. Last time just opted for the tyres from factory- Grand Trek and have had no issues got 60,000 km out of both sets. Have been told there are now better tyres in the market. I am looking at either BFGoodrich Long trail or Michellin Latitude cross. Only use my car for long trips to the snow and around town. Which tyres would you say is the better for snow and mileage?
44.
David Matthews. | October 27, 2009 at 4:59 am
A very sharp knife (box cutter) is great, a little bit of water to lubricate the knife, and a lot of inspiration will do the trick. Then use white “plastic” paint, not enamel to cover the black. Don’t be surprised if it turns light brown after a while- that’s the chemicals in the rubber designed to protect it from sunlight. Just paint it again. David